Tag Archives: mountaineering in India


The Himalaya, Karakoram and Hindu Kush ranges extend from Namcha Barwa in the east to the borders of Afghanistan in the west. Political maps show them as parts of India, Bhutan, Nepal, Pakistan and Afghanistan. A very large section of the Himalaya and an eastern section of the Karakoram, are in India. Broadly the Indian Himalaya consists of Arunachal, Sikkim, Uttarakhand, Himachal, Jammu & Kashmir and Eastern Karakoram. Though there are no 8000 m peaks in India except the Kangchenjunga, there are several peaks which are above 7000 m and a few of them are still unclimbed. A large number of peaks between 6000 to 7000 m are challenging and still virgin. Mountaineers in India have plenty of scope for exploration and conquest.

Karakoram Glacier

Arunachal Himalaya
Also known as the Assam Himalaya, much about this area is not known. It streches from Gori Chen in the east to Namcha Barwa. Due to government restrictions not many mountaineers have been there. There are several high peaks like Gyala Peri (7150 m), Kangto (7090 m) and Nyegi Kangsang (7047 m), not many of which have been climbed from the Indian side. Some of them were approached from Tibet and climbed from the north. The only peak which has been regularly climbed from the Indian side is Gori Chen (6858 m). Its lower peak, Peak II, has also had some infrequent visitors.


Gyala Peri Mountain

F.M. Bailey and H.T. Morshead were the first explorers here followed by F. Kindon-Ward in 1939. H.W. Tilman also visited this area and wrote his report Assam Himalaya Unvisited . The book by F.M. Bailey No Passport to Tibet is an excellent reference. These slopes witnessed the full fury of the war in 1962. The Chinese troops came down the ‘Bailey Trail’ almost till Sela pass, which is why the area was closed to civilians for many years.

Sikkim Himalaya
Sikkim shares a mountainous border with Nepal in the west and north and with China only in the north. All the early (pre-war) expeditions went through Sikkim to cross over to Tibet on their way to Everest. Francis Young husbands famous expedition to Tibet expedition also went through Sikkim.

Doug Freshfield was one of the first mountaineers to visit this area. His book Round Kangchenjunga is a classic record of all the peaks in Sikkim. In west Sikkim, peaks like Kabru (7338 m) were climbed in 1935 by C.R. Cook. Others like Kokthang and Rathong were climbed much later. Even now, many have not been climbed from the Sikkim side, e.g.: Talung.


Kangchenjunga Goechala

Northern Sikkim consists of the Zemu glacier valley from which rises the third highest mountain of the world, Kangchenjunga. Paul Bauer and his German team repeatedly attempted to climb it via its western approaches before the Second World War. Ultimately the Indian Army team was successful in doing so, in 1977 and there have been several subsequent repeats. There are many peaks around Kangchenjunga, like Simvu and Siniolchu, which are tempting, open invitation to climbers.

Pyramid Peak
Further north is Pyramid Peak, climbed by the Himalayan Association of Japan (HAJ) in 1993. In the vicinity are peaks like Jongsang and Chorten Nyima. Pauhunri with the pinnacle of Donkhya Ri upon it, is one of the chief attractions on the eastern side. There is a lot climbers can do in the Sikkim Himalaya.

Source: www.indmount.org

Mountaineering in India – Most Exhilarating Ways to Experience the Wonder of India


Nun Expedition
Nun Expedition

Being able to embrace the mountains as you climb them enables you to feel their magnificence up close. Mountaineering in India is an opportunity for everyone to be able to take in the best of the country while whetting the appetite for fun and adventure. The mountains of India are nothing short of magical. Whether on the amateur slopes, or even among the most imposing mountains, the common thread that links every experience is being able to take in the vastness of the terrain and the virgin beauty of the landscape. There are numerous locations that offer opportunities to experience the magic of mountaineering in India.

Kun Expedition
Kun Expedition

The largest destinations include Jammu and Kashmir, Ladakh, parts of Uttar Pradesh and Sikkim. This is where you are most likely to access the highest peaks and greatest experiences. The Zanskar range, Nun and Kun are the ranges which lure the experienced mountaineers most. There are several tiers of peaks which begin with the more modest ranges, going all the way to over 6000 metres. The height and experience has necessitated the mountains to be classified into various categories like ‘open’, ‘border’, ‘trekking’ and ‘virgin’.

Mount Shivling Expedition
Mount Shivling Expedition

This can help people make a selection based on their preference. The best time to take off on a mountaineering expedition would be during the summer. The months from May to October are extremely favourable, while the monsoons must be avoided due to the heavy downpours which render the slopes dangerous and also cause landslides. There are special skills required when undertaking mountaineering. This includes an orientation with information and guidance, and also some climbing skills.

Mount Stok Kangri Expedition
Mount Stok Kangri Expedition

These are important before you even begin your expedition. Based on your level of skill and practice, it is imperative that you only opt for a program meant for you. A medical check is also mandatory before you begin. Those with problems related to blood pressure and weight issues must avoid this sport. You should carry enough supplies to last you, and sets of all medication. Ensure that you are prepared for some of the ailments that you could be faced. Know of their symptoms and cures. Problems like frostbite, sunburn and snow blindness can occur and you should be able to curb them at the onset. Ensure you travel with a registered and recognised tour guide and leader who can take you through the tour safely and ensure that you benefit from the experience. If the mountains beckon, respond with your warm embrace.

Source: www..atoai.org